Where it is
Mtwapa sits on the A14 — the road that runs up the Kenyan coast from Mombasa to Malindi. To the south of town is the Nyali Bridge over Tudor Creek and the Mombasa CBD; to the north is Kikambala, then Vipingo, then Kilifi. The creek itself — Mtwapa Creek — empties into the Indian Ocean a few kilometres east of town and is fed by mangroves on both banks.
The closest international airport is Moi International Airport (MBA) in Mombasa, about thirty minutes by car at non-traffic hours. The closest SGR (railway) terminus is the Mombasa Terminus at Miritini, about fifty minutes away. There's also a smaller airstrip at Vipingo ten minutes north for chartered flights.
What it's like
Mtwapa is more town than resort. The main road has shops, banks, a market, three or four nyama choma joints worth stopping at, and a working matatu stage. Off the main road, tucked behind walls, are the homes — including ours — and the residential gardens. The creek is for floating, not swimming; the open beach is at Shanzu a couple of kilometres south, and at Kikambala a few kilometres north.
You'll hear Swahili, English, and a fair bit of Italian and German — the coast has long been a winter retreat for northern Europeans, and it shows.
Things worth doing
- Jumba la Mtwana ruins. A 14th-century Swahili settlement on the coast a few kilometres north — ruined mosque, tombs, and baobab trees that have been there longer than any of the buildings.
- Mamba Village. Crocodile farm and restaurant in Nyali. A 30-minute drive south. Tourist-y but fun.
- Mtwapa Creek dhow trips.Small operators run mangrove + sundowner trips out of the creek. Ask at reception and we'll point you at someone reputable.
- Shanzu beach. The closest stretch of ocean-facing sand, ten minutes south. Public access.
- Day trip to Watamu. An hour and a half north. Marine park, turtles, and clear water — the best snorkelling on the north coast.
When to come
December to February is high season — bright, hot, the ocean at its warmest, and busy. Book early.
March to early April shoulder. Still warm, fewer people, lower rates.
Mid-April to early Juneis the long rains. Things get quiet. Some good deals if you don't mind a wet afternoon — we keep the kettle on regardless.
July to October is the dry, cooler middle of the year. Our favourite. The bush is still green from the long rains, the wind picks up, and the light is excellent.
November short rains. Brief, often afternoon-only. Often pleasant.
Common questions
Where is Mtwapa?
Mtwapa is a small coastal town in Kilifi County, on the north coast of Kenya. It sits on the inland side of Mtwapa Creek, about 17 km north of Mombasa and 40 km south of Kilifi town along the A14 highway.
How do I get to Mtwapa from Mombasa?
From Mombasa Moi International Airport (MBA) the drive is about 25–35 minutes by taxi or Uber, depending on traffic at the Nyali Bridge. From the SGR Mombasa Terminus (Miritini), allow about 50 minutes. The Likoni–Mombasa–Mtwapa matatu route runs frequently and costs a fraction of a taxi.
When is the best time to visit Mtwapa?
The high season is December to February — hot, dry, and bright, with the Indian Ocean at its warmest. July to October is cooler and quieter, the long rains have passed, and the bush is green. Avoid mid-April to early June and parts of November if you want to avoid the long and short rains.
What's the difference between Mtwapa, Diani, and Watamu?
Diani is south of Mombasa and is the resort beach — long sand, big hotels, kite surfing. Watamu is up the coast past Kilifi and is famous for the marine park and turtles. Mtwapa is in between, on the creek rather than the open ocean, and is much more local in feel — fewer resorts, more nyama choma, walking distance to a working town.
Is Mtwapa safe?
Mtwapa is a working coastal town and like any town some neighbourhoods are quieter than others at night. The Robert Mulli Gardens area where Hotel Comster sits is residential and safe to walk around in the day; we recommend a taxi at night. Reception is open 7am to 10pm if you need one called.