The big market days are Saturday and Sunday — that is when everyone goes. Tuesday is the day we go.
On Tuesday the cassava is fresher, because nobody has had the chance to leave it sitting since Sunday. The fishmongers know who they are talking to. The tomatoes are not piled six-deep; you can actually see what you are buying.
Go early. Take a small basket. Don't haggle for the sake of it — the prices are already fair. If a stall has only three things on it, those three things are likely the best on the day.
We come back with mangoes, sometimes octopus, almost always a bunch of coriander. The coriander is for the kitchen; the octopus is for Friday's grill.



